3/30/2023 0 Comments I m big in japan shirtThe Allevol model already had a nice height on the front, but it was quite low at the back - again the more traditional or authentic shape. The other small change I made to our T-shirts was the neckline. Those have little shape in the waist, but can also be quite small in the chest, to make sure the waist isn’t too big. The result looks quite different to a normal circular-knitted tee, where both chest and waist have to be the same. I also wanted our T-shirts to have a fairly generous chest, so I added one centimetre to the chest measure on each size, creating a 5cm drop overall. So, if a medium measured 59cm from pit to pit, the hem at the bottom would be 55cm. The average was roughly a drop of 4cm between chest and hem. In deciding how much that taper should be, I compared several mainstream and higher-end brands. The result is a seamless T-shirt, which we then cut up the sides, taper, and resew. These are similar to loopwheel machines in how they work, but tend to create a denser material and a richer feel. The material is then knitted slowly on vintage circular machines, referred to as Taimaru. It uses a high-grade raw American cotton, which is spun in Japan into 14-count yarn (for context, most high-street T-shirts are around half that, as well as of course using lower quality fibre). Their fabric is the result of several years’ development on Taka’s part, creating a material that has a dense, slightly slubby hand, but drapes really nicely on the body. This is the model we’re launching today, exclusivelyon the PS Shop: an Allevol collaboration of white and navy heavy-duty, circular-knitted T-shirts. So I was pleased when (after a few iterations) we managed to produce a T-shirt together that had all that quality and handle, but in a more standard T-shirt shape. They're strong but soft, deliberately recreating the aesthetic of sports shirts from the 50s and 60s. I already have a couple of Allevol tees, having covered them previously on PS, and really like the make and feel. The most successful collaborator was Taka at Clutch Cafe (above), who under his own brand Allevol, makes T-shirts in the well-known Eiji factory in Osaka, Japan. Just over a year ago I started talking to Japanese makers about making a simple change: adding side seams to a normal circular tee, so it could be tapered. This stops them from having the tapered shape of a normal T-shirt, as most people are used to. If you’re remotely slim, they’re not very flattering.īrands do vary in proportions, but they can’t do anything about the fact that the body is one piece, like a tube. They have so much body, and such a nice hand compared to regular tees.īy comparison mainstream T-shirts can feel flimsy, almost like underwear.īut the problem, usually, with Japanese tees is that they’re cut in a traditional (‘authentic’) shape, which is short and square. ![]() ![]() I’ve always loved Japanese circular-knitted T-shirts.
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